Put a stop to spots

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Published: Saturday 21st March 2015 by The News Editor

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Not just a teenage thing – acne now affects nearly half of all adult women in the UK.

Acne vulgaris, to use its icky full title, now affects 44% of women in the UK, according a survey commissioned by skincare brand Eau Thermale Avene.

“Adult acne is increasing in prevalence, among women in particular,” says Professor Rino Cerio, a dermatologist at The Royal London Hospital. “I’m seeing some women come to me with acne in later life; they can be tearful, frustrated, and have very poor self-esteem or depression in some cases.”

So why the increase? Hormonal changes are often the cause – either natural fluctuations or due to changing or stopping hormone-based birth control methods, and later in life, the menopause. But stress also increases the production of androgens – the hormones which can stimulate oil glands and cause breakouts.

Thankfully, there are some steps everyone can take to maximise their skin health, like drinking eight glasses of water and day and getting enough sleep.

“Overall, proper nutrition is important for healthy, acne-free skin,” says Dr Howard Murad, dermatologist and founder of Murad skincare. “Eat plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables rich in Vitamin A, to help normalize the turnover of dead skin cells.”

As for acne treatment, tailor it according to your needs. Whether you suffer from just the odd spot, or regular breakouts and more persistent zits, here’s what the experts advise…

SPORADIC SPOTS

For infrequent acne, the old adage about never going to bed with your make-up on still applies.

“Always cleanse your skin before you retire to bed. Without proper cleansing, bacteria can survive – and thrive – on your skin, leading to breakouts,” says Dr Murad.

Cleanse with caution, though, says consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall: “There is reflex with acne-prone skin, to over cleanse and strip our natural oils with heavy alkaline, often alcohol-based cleansers. Stick to gentle cleansers that keep the skin barrier calm and optimally functional.”

Follow with a mattifying toner and moisturiser, and target individual spots with a serum treatment to dry them up overnight.

Now, let’s clear this up once and for all: is it ever OK to pop a spot? Only if you absolutely have to, the pros say.

Professor Cheerio warns: “The spot itself is keeping the bacteria contained, so when you breach the barrier, you’re at risk of creating other spots and permanent scarring.”

Dr Hextall adds: “If the spot has a yellow head, it is suitable. Make sure your hands are thoroughly clean and press until clear fluid appears, not blood, as you can encourage scarring. Wipe the area and then apply either witch hazel or tea tree oil.”

CLEANSE: Murad Clarifying Cleanser, £25 (www.murad.co.uk)

TONE: La Roche-Posay Serozinc, £8.50 (available April 1; www.boots.com)

MOISTURISE: Avene Cleanance MAT Mattifying Emulsion, £12 (www.boots.com)

TREAT: Witch Overnight Clearing Serum, £5.99 (www.superdrug.com)

REGULAR BREAKOUTS

If acne attacks have become more frequent, step up your skincare regime with skin-clearing ingredients and clinically-proven products.

“Salicylic acid helps to clear blemishes and prevent future breakouts. Try products that protect and restore skin health, with antioxidant vitamins C and E,” advises Dr Murad. “For more heavily blemished skin, look out for hydrogen peroxide with a patented delivery system that spirals down into the pore, eliminating bacteria with oxygen, while maintaining hydration.”

Professor Cheerio agrees: “It’s so important to strike the balance right between treating acne and maintaining healthy skin. Cleanance Expert has a core ingredient of Diolenyl, which works only where it’s needed and actively targets the acne-causing bacteria.” The moisturiser can be used twice daily and can help soothe the irritation that some topical acne medicines cause.

CLEANSE: Super Facialist by Una Brennan Salicylic Acid Purifying Cleansing Wash, £7.99 (www.superfacialist.co.uk)

TONE: Murad Blemish Clearing Solution, £39.50 (www.murad.co.uk)

MOISTURISE: Avene Cleanance Expert Emulsion, £15 (www.boots.com)

TREAT: La Roche-Posay Effaclar A.I. Targeted Breakout Corrector, £9.50 (www.boots.com)

ONGOING ACNE

What if, after trying all the chemist’s suggestions, your spots are still showing no signs of retreating?

“If in doubt, seek medical advice, especially if symptoms worsen over a period of time,” says Professor Cheerio. “The are a multitude of measures that can be taken to improve acne and help to prevent its return, including contraceptive pills.”

An expert will be able to reveal more about the exact causes, too.

Copyright Press Association 2015

Published: Saturday 21st March 2015 by The News Editor

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