Review – Bert’s Italian at Brandsburton

Berts Pizzeria

Published: Tuesday 14th October 2014 by Paul Nickerson - Writer

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A sophisticated and understated Italian that delivers as much in experience as it does in quality of food.

The first good decision made by the owners of this surprising restaurant is the location. Perched on the edge of a lake, Bert’s is purpose built with its own car park and peaceful views over the water.

The second is the laid back industrial decor. It’s a bit reminiscent of a Jamie’s Italian but without the wall-to-wall cookbooks.

Walking in from the car park, you arrive in the very modern pizzeria with a long elegant glass wall to one side.  Bert’s has a sophisticated feel and a good range of seating for couples, families and parties.

Although still finding their feet, the staff have been thoughtfully picked and are more attentive than at your average Italian. But two visits have confirmed that Bert’s is far from average.

The menu at Bert’s offers a reassuringly modest selection of dishes that have clearly been thought about. Many owners would have let the sophisticated decor go to their heads, but the choice and price range is accessible, exciting and thankfully lacks pretension.

Bert’s is a one off in more ways that one

We ordered the Chicken Liver Pate and Bert’s Caprese to start. Both dishes were neatly presented. The pate especially was elegant with a modest coarse texture and a nice pinkish appearance. It tasted fantastic, like pate should, light but flavoursome and spread beautifully on the exquisite Italian bread that accompanied it.  As a bread lover, I could have done with one more chunk – I had excess pate at the end. I soon recovered from this tragedy and was ready to greet our mains.

Berts Staff

The staff have been carefully chosen and are more attentive than in your average Italian

For the main course I had goats cheese and red onion pizza. I could have confidently chosen from almost any of the other options. My wife went for the Carbonara. The mains were very very good. This place obviously realises the importance of high quality ingredients. Let’s face it, pizza is pizza, but I’ve lost count of the times that by half-way the flavour and soggy base has begun to grate on the palette. Not at Bert’s where each slice was a pleasure. You would have to be crazy not to love this food which is light years ahead of the so called ‘high street’ italians like Ask and Pizza Express. So forget the chain stores,  Bert’s is a one off in more ways that one. Who would have imagined we would be having such a laid back yet aesthetically pleasing night in Brandesburton?

In summer you can eat outside on the waters edge.

So far, the courses had come at a good pace and we’d had  a couple of nice ‘how is everythings’ from our server. As the sun dropped over the lake the atmosphere became sophisticated. The glass walls now sleek black, we sunk back in our seats to observe the mix of family and couples dining in the now full restaurant. In summer you can eat outside on the waters edge.

For desert, sharing the Cheesecake was positively encouraged and proved a good decision. Describing the feeling of eating cheesecake is not very easy as most cheesecake addicts would agree – but it followed the now well established Bert’s formula. High quality ingredients, nicely presented, uncomplicated but with a hint of sophistication.

Bert’s is reliable and exciting and offers as much in quality experience as it does in food.

I’m not sure if their concept was inspired by Jamie’s Italian or not, but in lots of ways they are doing a much better job.

Verdict  Food 4/5. Service 4/5. Value 5/5.

Location New Road, Brandesburton, YO258RT

Food Italian. Plus coffee and cakes by day

Price range 3 courses with wine £25  per head

Booking Essential by email or call 01964 541809

Published: Tuesday 14th October 2014 by Paul Nickerson - Writer

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